Apparel Fabric Guide for Buyers

Natural fibers

Cotton fabric for everyday apparel: comfortable, printable and available in a wide range of weights and qualities, specified against a physical swatch.

Composition

100 percent cotton, or cotton rich blends with elastane or polyester.

Typical weight

Typically 120 to 220 gsm for jersey, 240 to 400 gsm for fleece and terry, and 100 to 200 gsm for woven shirting. The finished weight is confirmed on the approved sample.

Recycled and lower impact materials

Organic cotton for programmes that need a documented claim. It only counts when the certification chain is intact, so the paperwork is specified with the fabric.

Composition

100 percent organic cotton, or blends where the organic content is stated as a percentage.

Typical weight

Comparable to conventional cotton at the same construction. Typically 140 to 220 gsm jersey and 280 to 400 gsm fleece.

Synthetic and performance fibers

Polyester fabric for activewear and performance apparel: holds colour, dries quickly and accepts sublimation printing.

Composition

100 percent polyester, or blends with elastane, cotton or viscose depending on the requirement.

Typical weight

Typically 100 to 180 gsm for performance jersey and mesh, and 180 to 300 gsm for heavier training and outerwear fabrics.

Recycled and lower impact materials

Recycled polyester for lower impact apparel, performing comparably to virgin polyester when the quality is specified properly.

Composition

Recycled polyester, commonly stated as a percentage of total fibre content, often blended with elastane.

Typical weight

Comparable to virgin polyester at equivalent construction, typically 100 to 300 gsm.

Knitted fabrics

Cotton polyester blends for uniforms and workwear, balancing comfort against durability and shrinkage control across repeated laundering.

Composition

Cotton and polyester in stated ratios, sometimes with a small elastane content for comfort stretch.

Typical weight

Typically 150 to 220 gsm for pique and jersey, and 260 to 340 gsm for fleece used in uniform programmes.

Knitted fabrics

French terry for sweatshirts and mid weight streetwear: a looped back knit with structure but without the bulk of brushed fleece.

Composition

Commonly 100 percent cotton or cotton rich blends with polyester, sometimes with a small elastane content.

Typical weight

Typically 240 to 400 gsm. Below 260 gsm the fabric drapes; above 340 gsm it holds structure.

Knitted fabrics

Brushed fleece for hoodies, sweatshirts and fleece layers: a knit with a raised insulating surface. Sweatshirt fleece and polyester polar fleece have different constructions, weights and decoration requirements, so specify the intended type.

Composition

Cotton, cotton polyester blends, or polyester rich constructions for performance fleece.

Typical weight

For brushed sweatshirt fleece, 280 to 450 gsm is a typical sourcing range, with heavyweight hoodie specifications often around 380 to 450 gsm. This is not a universal range for polyester polar fleece or other technical fleece constructions; specify those separately by finished weight, loft and intended use.

Knitted fabrics

Pique for polo shirts and uniforms: a textured knit that holds its shape through repeated laundering.

Composition

Cotton, cotton polyester blends, or polyester for performance polos. Elastane added for fitted shapes.

Typical weight

Typically 170 to 240 gsm. Uniform programmes commonly specify 200 to 220 gsm.

Woven fabrics

Denim fabric for jeans, jackets and overshirts: weights, rigid or stretch options and the wash standard that keeps repeat orders consistent.

Composition

100 percent cotton, or cotton with one to three percent elastane for comfort stretch. Polyester is sometimes added for recovery.

Typical weight

Commonly expressed in ounces per square yard. Typically 8 to 10 oz for shirts and light jeans, 11 to 14 oz for standard jeans, and above 14 oz for heavyweight product.

Woven fabrics

Poplin shirting for formal and corporate shirts: a fine, smooth, crisp plain weave, specified by weight and finish.

Composition

Cotton, cotton polyester blends for easy care shirting, sometimes with a small elastane content.

Typical weight

Typically 100 to 140 gsm for shirting weight poplin.

Woven fabrics

Cotton canvas for bags, aprons and durable workwear: a heavy plain weave that is structural and hard wearing.

Composition

100 percent cotton, or cotton polyester blends for improved dimensional stability.

Typical weight

Typically 250 to 500 gsm depending on end use. Tote bags commonly sit between 280 and 400 gsm.

Synthetic and performance fibers

Elastane blends for activewear and fitted apparel: a small elastane percentage adds stretch and recovery, and that percentage changes the garment considerably.

Composition

Elastane blended with cotton, polyester or nylon. Percentage stated in the specification and on the care label.

Typical weight

Determined by the base fabric rather than by the elastane content. Performance knits commonly sit between 180 and 280 gsm.

Synthetic and performance fibers

Nylon fabric for outerwear shells, swimwear and technical accessories: strong and abrasion resistant, with coating and stretch options.

Composition

Nylon, commonly blended with elastane for swim and stretch woven applications.

Typical weight

Typically 40 to 120 gsm for shell fabrics and linings, and 150 to 220 gsm for swim knits.

Leather and coated materials

Animal hide for jackets and patches: how full grain, top grain and split leather differ, and what is agreed per hide before a leather style is sampled.

Composition

Animal hide, tanned and finished. The hide type, grain layer and finish are agreed per style.

Thickness and finish

Not specified in gsm. Leather thickness is agreed per hide and per style on the sample, and no standard thickness is published here.

Leather and coated materials

Polyurethane coated fabric used for a leather look: what the base fabric and coating each do, and why it must never be labelled or sold as leather.

Composition

A polyester or cotton base fabric with a polyurethane or similar coating. Both layers are named in the specification.

Base and coating

Specified as base fabric plus coating, and finished weights vary widely, so no standard range is published. The weight of the actual fabric is confirmed on a swatch.